Return to Jerusalem

I'm back in Jerusalem! Miriam Meltzer dropped me off near Danny's apartment Tuesday afternoon with an invitation to come back anytime. The people I've stayed with so far have all been incredibly generous. For many, this is our first time meeting, and yet no one asks me how long I plan on staying with them and they always let me know that I'm welcome back anytime. It's a little tiring being "Phillip and Noreen's daughter" or "Noa's little sister" all the time and I wish I had some of my own friends here. It's harder when you're only somewhere 4 or 5 nights max to make good friends, but at least the people I'm staying with will know who I am now and in future meetings won't just think of me in reference to someone else. What I've been really surprised about is how easy it is to "make yourself at home" when homeless. Before coming here I thought it would be a bit exhausting what with all the moving around and not having any place to really relax or settle into, but it's not difficult at all. I've learned to assume that if people tell me to make myself comfortable, act like I'm at home, eat whatever I want, etc that they mean it. And so for the time that I'm in a certain place I really try to live there and get to know the people and the surroundings.

I really didn't get to see as much of Neve Ilan as I would have liked because it was raining or unpleasant at least half of my time there, but on my last full day I went on a two hour long walk with Miriam up to a lookout spot and then to some Roman ruins. It's so cool how many ruins there are everywhere, and how well put together the remains are. The fact that anything is standing after thousands of years is remarkable. For an older woman, Miriam never fails to surprise me with her vigor. The last stretch of the walk was very uphill and the sun was out, but while I was struggling upwards Miriam was chatting away about the book she's writing without any hint of tiring. As I've said before, she and Collin are such sweet people and I really hope I'll be able to see them again before I leave Israel.

Tuesday was the last night of Hanukkah and I spent it with Danny at a musical get together of Hebrew and Hanukkah discussion. Danny translated for me so I got the gist of what was going on and being said. After a while they had us do this exercise where we were each given a candle to light and then we focused on it for a few minutes and wrote down whatever the candle inspired us to write. Watching everyone light their candles off their neighbors until the whole room was lit I wrote about how the candles represent the light within each of us, and how sometimes we shine brightly and sometimes we're little more than an ember. But we know that if the light goes out we can count on those closest to us to light it again. On our way home we passed a dance party in the shuk (market) and how can you just walk past a dance party? It was getting late so Danny looked at me and said, "Alright, we have about 30 seconds to just go crazy." A few minutes later, completely out of breath, we resumed our route to his apartment. I'm sad to say that I didn't get a single latke during this Hanukkah, but the amount of sufganiyot I consumed more than made up for that.

Earlier on Tuesday I had met another one of my sister's friends, Ariel Fisher, and he very exuberantly offered to show me some places in Jerusalem on Wednesday. So Wednesday morning, after grabbing some yummy snacks in the market, we walked about 10 minutes north and were in a different world. We entered the Haredi neighborhood, the home of the very extremist religious people. They have signs all over asking woman to dress modestly; I had a skirt on but I still got a few upset looks, though thankfully no one said anything. The signs all over the streets are so filled with propaganda, the whole group is anti-zionist and anti-internet/electronics. It's quite a poor group of people due to many factors; the families have sometimes up to 15 children, the women are in charge of the houses and children, and a lot of men don't work because they are studying the Torah. Ariel explained that the government mostly takes care of them because they act as a tie-breaker during voting in return for financial aid. This is certainly not a place I would have gone to on my own, but I'm glad I was able to see it. Afterwards we entered the old city through a different gate than I had and went to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There was so much artwork! And in such a variety of styles and range of condition. There were some mosaics that looked as if they could have been done yesterday, and then there were paintings where you could hardly make out what it must have shown originally. Ariel had to leave after this but he pointed me in the direction of the Tower of David museum where I spent the next hour or so. This museum is all about the history of Jerusalem, but the best part was the view you get from the tower. You can see in every direction for ages! It was also pretty interesting reading the history of Jerusalem, though there was a lot of things to read and not much to look at. Either way, I'm glad I went. I really didn't realize just how dynamic the history of Jerusalem was.

Wednesday afternoon I was pretty tired and just kind of hung out, but the nice thing about being abroad is that even when you're just "hanging out" you can always remind yourself that you're hanging out...abroad! And it works even better for chore-type things. You're not just washing dishes, you're washing dishes...in Israel! Or making my bed...in Jerusalem! Later in the evening Danny received an order of fresh, organic vegetables and we made a really delicious dinner. I like being here because they all try so hard to eat well. For instance, today's breakfast: Granola with sheep yogurt, unsweetened peanut butter, a little agave nectar, and some acai berry powder. Good and good for you!

Today, as usual, looks really nice out and I'm about to head out to the Israel Museum and maybe the Botanical Gardens. I really love Nachala'ot (where Danny's apartment is) and I've decided to stay here until Sunday. Then it's off to volunteer at a kibbutz (communal living area) in the south of Jerusalem!

Meet The Meltzers

Hello! I write to you from my fifth bed and the home of Miriam and Collin Meltzer, and their dog, Neil (who names a dog Neil?). They live on a moshav, a small village/community, called Neve Ilan located about twenty minutes outside of Jerusalem in the direction of the Mediterranean. It is a very beautiful place with wonderful views but I haven't seen too much of it because, unfortunately for me but fortunately for the country, it has been raining most of the time since I got here on Friday afternoon. Regardless, I'm enjoying my time here and these are good people to hole up with until the rain passes. They are both grandparent age and though I've never had a grandmother, Miriam is exactly what I imagine when I thought of what one would be like. She's almost a foot shorter than I am but she's a lively lady; if anyone's helping anyone cross roads, it's her helping me. She always has chocolate, she holds my hand when we leave places so we don't get separated, and she gives me little jobs to do then praises me for completing them. She makes me feel like a small child, but I like her too much for that to bother me. Collin is another sweetheart; he's blind and Neil is his guide dog. There isn't a lot he can't do, I like hearing about some of the inventions he has that make his independence possible. He recently got a iPhone (which I taught him how to use today) and it has an app so that you place it on a page of text, raise it up until the whole page is within the phone's view, and then the phone will beep to let you know it's got it all and will read the page aloud. How incredible is that? And for the things he can't quite manage, Miriam is devotedly and patiently always ready to help him.

Before I can write anything else I need to tell you about something that happened Friday. So I got on a bus around noon to come to Neve Ilan, but I wasn't really sure whereabouts that was or where I was supposed to get off. After about twenty minutes I nervously got the bus driver's attention with, "Excuse me, where is Neve Ilan?" and he responded, "The hotel?" in reference to the one that's part of the moshav. Assuming that was a good place to get off the bus I answered yes. He then said something I couldn't make out but I could tell by his tone and gestures that we weren't there yet but it wasn't far off.
That's all.
Except it was my first conversation entirely in Hebrew!
How's that for less than two weeks abroad?!

Now I'll reverse a bit to Thursday. Richard Paley dropped me off in the center of Jerusalem on Thursday morning and I took my stuff back to Danny's apartment where I was staying the night again. We went to a Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra concert that evening which Richard had been able to spare two tickets for. It was an incredible concert with Mischa Maisky, a cellist, as the soloist. This man is amazing. He almost doesn't need the cello! There is such purpose in every one of his movements, just the way he lifts his bow to the strings is gripping. His whole body is filled with music. I wonder if it's depressing being his cello and knowing you'll never be able to keep up with your player. He encored twice and the second time he played a piece I've heard my mom play many times. It made me so happy; I know he played it well but I can't help but prefer the way it sounds when my mom plays it. On the walk home from the concert Danny spied a pile of free books and I found one that I love a disproportionate amount. Around The World - in colour (because being in color was a big deal) by WG Moore, published in 1960 in Czechoslovakia (so you know it's going to be good). It's politically incorrect and not up to date by any means, but the pictures are beautifully drawn and it ends by reminding us all that though our world is large and full of wonder, we should keep in mind that we are only one small planet in the great expanses of the universe and in those terms, insignificant.

As usual, there was good conversation with Danny on this walk back to the apartment. I really enjoy talking with him. Some things from that walk that I know I plan on keeping in mind and might be good for others to internalize a little:
-Approach new things and subjects of learning with equal receptivity and interest. I think too often we'll turn down an opportunity because it sounds boring but you really learn so much more when we say yes! Incidentally, that was essentially the advice Noa and her boyfriend (and Danny's brother), Jack, gave me before leaving the states.
-On this trip I am seeing new things everyday. Just walking down the road is something new and exciting for me because these are places I've never seen. What I hope is to be able to bring that same sense of excitement  with me when I go home and am surrounded by the same places I've grown up around and have seen a thousand times. This is related to my previous comment, but takes it farther.
-"To find yourself" is a phrase used very often with a lot of vagueness. Before I left people said I would be able to use this time to "find myself" and I'd internally roll my eyes at the overused phrase given so much reverence. But I am guilty of thinking on a parallel plane, because the reason I insisted on doing this trip alone was so that I would be free of anyone's expectations of me based on how they knew me in Bangor and my whole life. I was convinced that would limit my ability to change or, I suppose, "find myself."

I realize those aren't necessarily applicable to anyone or anything besides me and this trip, but nonetheless, there they are.

So I've been in Neve Ilan two nights now. On Saturday I woke up quite dizzy and it continued most of the day, finally fading before evening. I think it might have something to do with altitude changes, but in the moment I freaked myself out with a bout of hypochondria and I believed I had brain eating amoeba, after reading an article about brain eating amoeba killing two people who had to do some of the same treatments I had to do after my surgery. Seeing as it passed and I'm fine now, I'm pretty sure it's not brain eating amoeba. However my worry and general fear of falling out of my chair made it difficult to enjoy a concert I went to with Miriam yesterday afternoon. She is a very good singing coach and one of her students was singing with another of Miriam's friends, a violinist, and a small group of baroque musicians in a lovely church one town over. There was a stone figure on the roof of the church and after finishing the book, The Stone Carvers by Jane Urquhart a few days ago I have new appreciation for anything carved, wooden or stone. If you're looking for a good book I would definitely recommend it. I'm now on East of Eden by John Steinbeck but I'm afraid that even with its 600 pages it won't last me long. I finished rereading Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close by Jonathan Safran Foer not long after arriving in Israel...so finishing East of Eden will exhaust my book collection. Except that I've got my brand new, used, politically incorrect book about the world I can always read!

All for now...I'm here with the Meltzers another two nights and then back to Jerusalem to test the hospitality of Danny and his room mates once again. I hope everyone's enjoying their Hanukkah and Christmas!

Hanukkah at the Paley's

Today is the first not-so-nice day since I got here. Outside is cloudy and windy. Somehow the weather is in unison with my body; my legs are exhausted from the past few days of navigating the hilly streets and I was already planning a rest day before I looked out the window. On Monday I went to the Biblical Zoo. It was supposed to be a 20 minute walk there that became closer to a 2-hour one. I got pretty lost in this neighborhood and kept ending up at the same spot from every possible angle. Finally I found a way out of the criss crossing streets and to a main road. Then the only route I saw possible to the zoo was a very indirect one, but it was better than giving up. It was very nice to walk around the zoo, there were a lot of animals (duh). My favorite is the Red Panda. I spent a good hour and a half exploring and then began my very uphill, roundabout trek back. It

took me so long that it was dark outside, but I still found my way okay

Yesterday, Tuesday, I went to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial site. The museum is very graphic, informative, and touching. They do a very good job of taking you from the factors that inspired the propaganda and Hitler's role, through the entire events until the end and the freedom of those who survived. It starts out very much like a museum, filled with artifacts and history, but as it progresses there are videos of peoples testimonies and pictures and their belongings. It takes an event that we usually think of as something in the past and makes it very present and personal. There are pictures of the Nazis and so many of them are not much older than me, just kids who were brought up in a society that enabled them to know longer consider Jews as humans. The whole system of propaganda and trickery and the length of time for which it went on is astounding. They have recreated barracks and pieces of railway cars, with the video testimonies right next to it explaining their relationship with each relic. It's very moving and while not at all a happy place, a place worth seeing

Hanukkah has now started, last night was the first night and I lit candles with the Paley's. This Hanukkah I will be staying with about three different people/families..so different! I really like seeing how traditions are the same and different from my home to the next. Richard Paley is a bit like my dad, except much...faster. Not to say my dad is slow, just that Richard is always talking fast, moving fast, never stopping for more than a moment. But he put on the same dorky Hanukkah songs that my dad usually does, only he accompanied them with some nice dance moves. His son is a lot like him, they're both characters. Shirah is more down to earth and I've had some nice conversations with her. She's very sweet and, as I've said before, a very good cook. She works as a florist so there are always flowers around their house. All in all, it's a nice place to start the holidays

Jerusalem

I can't believe it's been just over one week since I arrived. It feels like it's been so much longer. I'm in Jerusalem right now and I definitely like it here better than in Tel Aviv and probably Herzliya too. I got here Saturday night and slept in Noa's friend, Danny's, apartment. This was my first time meeting him but it felt like I already knew him...probably because I know his twin brother. He and his roommates are all really nice and said I can stay there whenever and for however long I need to. I also met some of their friends who were all pretty cool. They all sit around and play music and drink tea and meditate in the mornings (earlier than I had hoped). That apartment is almost a community in itself, and it has a great location. It's right in the center of town within walking distance to a lot of cool things. Yesterday I walked to the old city and the Western Wall, as well as around a couple outdoor markets. It's almost Hanukkah which is probably the best time to be in Jerusalem because they sell the most delicious donuts everywhere. "Sufganiyot" is what they're called. They're so bad for you but after one bite you really couldn't care less.

In the afternoon I was picked up by the Paley's, some of my parents' old friends. They have a house near the outskirts of Jerusalem. They have three kids but one is in America, one is in the army (and only home on weekends), and the other is a junior in high school so he's the only one really at home. Shirah is a very delicious cook, last night she made the best soup I've ever had. I used to be such a picky eater but here I eat anything anyone puts in front of me. I am usually out from anywhere between 10 and 4 so I find lunch out. I've never walked into a restaurant by myself before and eaten alone. So simple, but I just have never really gone out alone so much. Here I love being outside by myself. I can walk around anywhere and stay as long as I like. The weather is always beautiful and warm and there are a lot of things to see and do. I pack a bag in the  morning with a map, camera, bottle of water, maybe a book or notebook, and sometimes a snack and then you won't see me for a few hours, depending on what I find.

On Saturday night, with Danny, I went to a yarzheit (remembrance of one's death) for a rabbi's father. I can't remember the rabbi's name but he was a wonderful and very passionate speaker. He mostly spoke about Hanukkah, raising a lot of questions and answering them from many different angles. The overall point was about the stories we hear or are told and whether they actually happened, and if that even matters or if it's more important what we learned from them. I got this, but I also got a lot of other things out of the discussion that I could relate to my traveling. It made me think about how in Bangor I've never really pushed myself or done anything that was especially difficult. I never really pushed myself at school, I had ideas that I didn't always see through, as piano got progressively more difficult I stopped taking lessons. But here I'm on my own and I'm pushing myself in a whole manner of new ways that will ultimately benefit me. Already I've had to face so many fears and then I realize how silly some of them were. Like taking a bus or navigating an airport, they're so simple! Or talking to people I don't know, here I meet new people everyday. It's been out of necessity, but if it weren't so then I wouldn't have done it.

Everyone here takes school much more seriously. Ronit is trying to get into med school but first has to do the Israeli equivalent of the SATs. I took a few SAT tutoring sessions, but other than that I really just went in with a "we'll see how this goes" kind of attitude, which in my mind was better than stressing over it. But Ronit goes to a school to prepare her for this test, studies every day for it, has about 14 books to help her prepare. It's taken very seriously by everyone in the country, so average, "winging-it" scores won't really fly. It makes me want to redo the SATs, to try harder, to not be satisfied with the thought of UMaine.

But that's all I have time for right now, it's lovely out and I'm going to the zoo.

The Past Few Days

First of all, I'm sorry for all the spelling errors. It's really hard to fix them on an iPad.

The past few days have been about as different as possible as anything I would have experience in Maine. On Tuesday I went traveling with Avi in the north of the country. He knows so much history which makes him a great tour guide. We went to Ceasarea, which I'd actually visited with my dad when we came to Israel seven years ago. It's an old ruined city next to the Mediterranean. If I thought there were a lot of cats wandering Herzliya, it's nothing compared to the population there. You could take a picture facing any direction and
find at least half a dozen cats in it. Cats on trash cans. Cats amon stone ruins. Cats peeking out of hedges. Everywhere. Afterwards. Proceeded farther north to Tivon, the site of the first farm I intended to WWOOF at. We had hoped to visit the place to just check it out, but our call to see if that was okay was received quite rudely and a bit strangely. It was a Little suspicious and I .decided not to go there. It's not worth it since I have other things to do and a bad feeling about it. So after Tivon we continued to the Kinneret, also known as the Sea of Galilee. I saw it from about every possible angle as we progressed farther north into the Golan Heighta. To get there we drove along the border to where you can see both Syria and Jordan, and then there's an extremely steep and winding road directly upwards. Remember what I said about Israelis liking to drive fast? Okay well imagine that, racing uphill, slowing just enough to make a 180 degree corner, then rocketing off again, same corner, over and over. Meanwhile there are "beware of landslides" signs the whole way, just to add a new level of terror. But once you're up there it's incredible. Therer are viewpoints where you can see for miles. All in all we were gone for 10 hours that day traveling. When we returned Ronit invited me to a bar with her and the friend I'd met on Monday, Neva. I was fairly exhausted from Thea say but the advice I was given before coming was to say yea to any offer that you are on the fence about. So I went and it was pretty fun though we didn't stay long.

Wednesday was my first day really fending for myself. I had called Noa's friend, Grumer's, the night before to see if I could come visit him in Tel Aviv and stay in his apartment that night. I found the bus onto Tel Aviv without much difficulty and Grumer's met me at the central bus station. This is the second largest bus station in the world, only beat recently by one in India. There are seven floors with buses and stores and tons of people. Tel Aviv itself is a bit like an Israeli version of New York. Grumer had to work all day so he gave me a map and told me places to check out and I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring from Allenby to Dizengof.

On Thursday I found my way back to Herzliya. If I thought car drivers were bad, they've got nothing on bus drivers. At times there are half a dozen lanes and all the cars are weaving back and forth making use of every lane. Then the bus drivers come in and honk and curse their way amongst the cars, making just as much use of every single lane. THEN the motorcyclists come into play. They're weaving around cars and buses, who are already weaving across lanes, at ridiculous speeds. Someone told me more Israelis have died in car accidents than in all the wars combined and I have no trouble believing it. I finally found a place to change traveler's cheques on Thursday. After going to 3 or 4 change booths and one bank, the post office changed them for me. I have $200 worth of shekels that might last me my whole time here. The rest of the day was spent reading and making calls, trying to find a place to stay tomorrow night. I wdnt out for pizza with Ronit in the evening, and then later I went out with Eyal and one of his friends. We werre going to go to a bar but it was packed sowe went to a hookah bar. Definitely an interesting experience that you won't find in Maine, but it was fun.

We are going into Jerusalem tomorrow so I will just take my suitcase and stay there instead of struggling my suitcase onto a bus. I'm staying with another of Noa's friends and the brother of her boyfriend tomorrow, Danny. Then Sunday night friends of my parents, the Paley's, said I could stay with them. I have about a week and a half in Jerusalem before I plan to go volunteer at a kibbutz with some other friends of my parents for a week or so.

I am struggling to learn hebrew as quickly as possible. Everyone here speaks some degree of English, and while most people don't mind that I can't speak Hebrew, some are very rude about it. I can't really form sentences yet but I know words here and there and I try to work in what I know as much as possible. Ronit is quite helpful and she says my accent has promise.

Israelis are much more outgoing and upfront than Americans. People come up and talk to you often, yeah they are hitting on you about half the time, but sometimes they just want to talk or ask questions or offer you help. I walked into the bus station yesterday on my way back to Herzliya and the guy in front of me turned around and asked me where I was going and then took me up to floors and found my bus for me. He could probably see the look of bewilderment in my eyes, but that's just not something that really happens in the US. So yes, Israelis can be very helpful and sweet, but they are also not very polite always. I feel like I need a thicker skin here. I don't usually think of Americans as being polite, but compared to here they definitely are. Here you have to be more aggressive. "excuse me" rarely works, it has to be accompanied with shoving your way through the crowd. But I'm getting used to it, as well as the weekend being Friday and Saturday and 24-hour clocks.

I think I had some sort of romanticized notions about this trip in my head. The thought of not knowing where I might be the next day was exciting. And it is, but it's also stressful and a bit lonely. It's a good thing all my plane tickets are bought and I'm committed to this trip because I really thought of ways to get out of it the first few days here. On the plane rides I was so mad at myself for doing this, but it's good for me. I am entirely in control of where I go and what I do. I can't sit around and mope when I get sad, I have to always figure out where to get money or food or where I'll be sleeping the next night. I originally thought this would be easier than Thailand because I'd be with family and I have a cell phone so I can talk to my parents as often as I want, but in Thailand I will be in one place the whole time. I won't have to live outed my suitcase a few days at a time and I'll have a job to do. Here I have no requirements or expectations, which is good and bad. But like I said, each day gets a bit easier and I'm really glad I have no choice but to see this through.

What I've learned about Israelis so far

Things they like:
1. Driving fast
2. Coffee

Things they don't like:
1. People who drive slowly
2. Stupid questions

Things they don't really notice but I like:
1. Cats everywhere!

I don't have time to write much because I have to go find a bus stop to find a bus that will take me to Tel Aviv where i'm spending the night at Noa's friend, Grumer's. Will I find my way there successfully? Only time will tell... TO BE CONTINUED

Israel!

I'm in Israel! I take back all my airport fears...they are super easy to navigate. After two flights, one ocean, and about 14 hours I safely made it to Tel Aviv where my dad's cousin, Avi, picked me up to drive me to his home in Herzliya. He and his wife are incredibly nice, as are their children. They have a daughter, Ronit, who is 20 and a son, Eyal, who is 27. They have an older son too but he doesn't live at home. They also have a very fluffy dog named Snowy who looks like she'd be a bit better suited for Maine's climate. Between jet lag and homesickness I didn't do much after arriving. I went to bed at 7 and slept until 10 this morning so I'm successfully on Israel time.

Most of today was spent alongside the Mediterranean in gorgeous weather. It's so bright and warm here! In the morning Miri (Avi's wife) took me to the marina on the other side of town. Sooo many boats. We also explored the mall for a little while before heading home. Ronit's friend came over and we all ate lunch together. Then I went out with Ronit and her friend to a different part of the coastline. Here we were on cliffs overlooking the sea. It was so incredibly beautiful. I wish I got to live so close to such lovely places.

Tomorrow Avi has taken the day off work and we are going exploring in either Jereusalem or up north (my choice). I will probably spend the rest of the week here in Herzliya before going to volunteer at my first farm in Tivon, which is just outside of Haifa and I've been told a beautiful place. I got in touch with them today and am expecting a call back later this afternoon to finalize what day I should come. That's all I can write for now because I'm on Avi's iPad and don't want to kill it, but there's sure to be more to come!

Pre-Trip Nerves

I've had to say my first real good-byes in the past few days, and there are more to come. I keep being told how excited people are for me, and how jealous they are that I get to do this, but to be honest, I'm really afraid now that my departure is three days away. I'm excited too, no doubt, but this isn't like summer camp when I can come home early if I need to (which I have done before). I'm committed to five months away from the comfort of routine and predictability. In Bangor, I know what I'm doing; I'm good at my job, I've got good friends and family, and if things ever get too overwhelming I go up to the stables where I can disappear in the woods with my horse for a few hours. I crave travel and adventure, but I'm intimidated by it.

It's almost like a test, like something I have to prove to myself. Can I go off by myself to places I've never been before, with languages I don't speak, and not only survive, but thrive? My mom said she felt the same way before she left home for the first time. Maybe that's how everyone feels.

Actually, I'm not so scared of being alone in the world; what I'm most anxious about are airports. Not flying or being on airplanes, but navigating the airports, getting to the correct gate (on time), and knowing where to go. Customs, baggage claims, passport control, transfers, check-ins....what is the correct order!? I have literally studied maps of the terminals/airports I land in (which would help if I was any good at reading maps), and I know that's a little pathetic/excessive but it sort of makes me feel better. Maybe it'll be like when you have to give a presentation in class and the anticipation is worse than the actual presenting part. Maybe.

After writing this, no one's going to believe me when I say I'm excited to travel. But I am. And I do want to go. And I know it's going to be okay.

I saw this guy for the last time on Sunday.
His goodbye present to me? Ripping out a large section of his mane.
Thanks Ransom.

4 Countries, 5 Months

It is now one week before I leave. I have yet to start packing but most of my flights are booked so we're on the right track. Until you are faced with the daunting task of packing a suitcase to last you five or so months in a variety of temperature zones you really aren't aware of just how much stuff you "need." My room is currently filled with freshly-bought bags of necessities that weren't so necessary until I was going away. For those of you who know me well, I despise shopping. I'll wear clothing out, steal from my sisters, persuade my mom to buy things I need to avoid doing any shopping myself. These are not particularly noble options to begin with, but they're completely invalid when alone and away from home. So I can honestly say I've done more shopping in the past week or two than I have in months (if not longer).

Clothing becomes the least of the packing concerns. It's a simple formula of what temperatures you'll be faced with x amount of time spent in said temperature zone + type of situations expected - things that can be easily replaced abroad. Simple, yes? What's tricky is guessing how many batteries you might need. Or trying to figure out how much super strength, full of Deet, crazy poisonous bug spray you might go through in 2 months, and whether an island off the southern peninsula of Thailand is likely to carry something of the same caliber. 

The itinerary for this trip has been based around one simple idea: how far can I get on the least amount of money? I leave for Israel on December 10 and I'll be there for seven weeks. My parents lived in Israel for six years a while back so some of their old friends will house me for part of the time, and my older sister spent a year in Israel between high school and college so I have some contacts from her, too. Between these and a wonderful thing called World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF - http://www.wwoof.org/) I am thankfully spared housing costs. 

Then it's off to Scotland on the first of February where I'll meet up with my dad. My grandpa lives in Scotland and we'll be able to stay with him. My mom and little sister will be coming to Scotland later in the month, but before they do my dad and I are going to Germany for about a week. I leave Scotland before the rest of my family does and fly to California to see my most lovely older sister (HAPPY BIRTHDAY NOA!!!) for a week before it's off to Thailand!

Through Idealist.org (http://www.idealist.org/), a site courtesy of Noa, I found a volunteer program at an animal shelter that will house you in exchange for the work you put in. I e-mailed the organization without real expectation of a response, and within 24 hours I had a reply and volunteer application. It's called Lanta Animal Welfare (http://www.lantaanimalwelfare.com/) and I'll be there for about two months.
Then it's back to Noa and San Francisco for a few weeks and home to Maine!